2008, Vol.20, No.3

Textile Coloration and Finishing KCI Impact Factor : 0.0

pISSN : 1229-0033 / eISSN : 2234-036X
https://journal.kci.go.kr/ksdf

Three kinds of 135D/108F ITY were produced from raw yarn 85D/72F + SDY 50D/36F with interlacing pressure 1.5kg/cm2, 2.5kg/cm2, 3.5kg/cm2 respectively. 72 kinds of sized yarns were manufactured from three ITYs by altering sizing speed, sizing temperature and sizing tension. The mechanical characteristics of 72 kinds of plain fabrics which were woven using the sized yarn as a warp were analyzed after scouring. The initial modulus of scoured fabric responded sensitively to the sizing speed in high tension. The WT of scoured fabric recorded the highest in the conditions of sizing tension 30g, and air pressure 2.5kg/cm2 in interlacing treatment. When sizing temperature was high, the WT value appeared low, but when sizing speed was high, the WT value was much affected by air pressure in interlacing raw yarn. The MIU value of fabric according to sizing tension variations increased up to sizing tension 40g, but decreased above it. The bulk density decreased up to sizing tension 30-40g, but increased above it. In addition, the bulk density decreased as sizing temperature increased.

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of turmeric was studied. In this study, the colorants of turmeric were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics was dyed with aqueous extract of turmeric and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(turmeric) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably became increased when the crosslinked chitosan concentration was higher. Dyeability of turmeric was improved on chitosan- crosslinked cotton fabric rather than only cotton fabric, while the saturated dyeing time was 20minutes at 60℃. The hue value indicated greenish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was almost the same.

The purpose of this study is to develop the dyeing method with dry leaves of indigo plant. Coloring matter was extracted from dry leaves of indigo plant with hot sodium hydroxide solution. The extract was reduced with sodium dithionite, and it was used for dyeing cotton fabrics under various conditions. UV-visible absorption spectra of extract, reduction rate of extracts by reducing agent, and the surface color of dyed cotton, lightfastness were examined. For the initial 20 minutes, the absorbance of indigo solution rapidly decreased. However, several hours later, the decreasing rate retarded. By repeating the dyeing process, the shade looked deeper and deeper. At 30~40℃, the value of K/S reached the highest point. The concentration of indigo solution in dye bath seemed to play a critical role for the reaction of the reducing agent. It was observed that the surface color of cotton fabrics was getting bluish and its degree of value and chroma seemed slightly decreased as the K/S value was increasing. The lightfastness was clearly enhanced by increasing the K/S value.