2009, Vol.21, No.3

Textile Coloration and Finishing KCI Impact Factor : 0.0

pISSN : 1229-0033 / eISSN : 2234-036X
https://journal.kci.go.kr/ksdf

Polycarboxylics acids are used as crosslinking agents for cotton cellulose to produce durable finished press cotton fabric. It has been observed that the strength of the cotton fabric treated with polycarboxylic acids showed significant reduction as a result of the crosslinking process. The effect of acid-catalyzed depolymerization on the tear strength of cotton fabric is investigated by evaluating the cotton fabric treated by succinic acid, which does not crosslink cotton cellulose and form little ester on the cotton fabric. We find that the tear strength of cotton fabric treated with succinic acid decreases at elevated temperature due to acid-catalyzed depolymerization of cellulose. The magnitude of fabric strength reduction increases as the acid concentration increases. At a constant acid concentration, it increases as the curing temperature and time increases. It decreases as the pH of the acid solution increases. We also find that the dissociation constant of an acid also has a significant effect on the fabric strength reduction. The magnitude of fabric tear strength reduction increases as the acid dissociation constant decreases.

Dyeing process of the natural indigo powder onto ramie and silk fabrics was investigated by using glucose and calcium hydroxide as a reducing system. Effect of reduction and dyeing conditions such as temperature and time of reduction/dyeing, and concentrations of glucose and calcium hydroxide on the dyeing process were explored. Indigo powder was obtained by drying the conventional niram paste in an oven at 50℃. Color strength of the dyed fabrics was evaluated by K/S value measured at the wavelength of maximum absorption(λmax). Munsell color coordinates(H V/C) were used to compare fabric colors of ramie and silk. Ramie fabric showed purple-blue color for all the temperature and time. On the contrary, silk fabric showed wide range of color including brown, brown-green, green at the different temperature. With the increase of K/S value, the coordinate of value(lightness) decreased for both of ramie and silk fabrics. The coordinate of hue(shade) changed drastically with the increase of K/S value for silk fabric, compared with that of ramie fabric which showed nearly constant value at the whole range of K/S value. Optimum concentrations of calcium hydroxide were for 6 g/L for ramie and 4 g/L for silk at 60℃ and 50 min. K/S value increased with the indigo concentration. Maximum K/S value was shown at 10~12 g/L of glucose concentration. For both of ramie and silk fabrics, the colorfastness of washing and light was lower than that of rubbing. All the colorfastness values were improved with the increase of color strength.

Polymerization of tetraethoxysilane on a glass substrate was investigated by remote microwave plasma using argon with portions of nitrous oxide as carrier gas. Transparent layer like a thickness of 0.5 µm ‐ 3 µm were obtained, differing in chemical composition, depending on plasma power and treatment time as well as on ageing time. In general the milder the treatment and the shorter the ageing was, the higher was the content of organic structural elements in the layer. We have identified that the chemical structure of our samples composed of mainly Si‐O‐ and Si‐C‐ groups containing aliphatics, carbonyl groups. These results were obtained by X‐ray photon spectroscopy, Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy, and scanning electron microscope combined with Energy dispersive X‐ray spectroscopy.