2011, Vol.23, No.3

Textile Coloration and Finishing KCI Impact Factor : 0.0

pISSN : 1229-0033 / eISSN : 2234-036X
https://journal.kci.go.kr/ksdf

para-Aramid has limited dyeability because of its highly crystalline structure and compactness. To improve the dyeability of the para-aramid to reactive dyes of bright color in deep shade, the fabrics were photografted under continuous UV irradiation with dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and 4-benzoyl benzoic acid as a monomer and a hydrogen -abstractable photoinitiator respectively. A UV energy of 35J/cm^2 and a photoinitiator concentration of ten percent or more with respect to the monomer in the formulation was required for optimal photografting. Grafting yield increased with higher monomer application level. Surface analysis indicated significant alterations in the atomic composition of the photografted fabric surface and the fabric surface was covered with the grafted polymers. While the pristine para-aramid fabrics showed no appreciable dyeability to the α-bromoacrylamide reactive dyes, the grafted para-aramid fabrics enhanced the dyeability to the reactive dyes substantially. In case of C.I. Reactive Blue 50, a K/S value of 8.7 can be obtained with the grafted para-aramid fabrics with a grafting yield of 2.3 %. Also the color fastness properties of the dyed fabrics was excellent in the conditions of washing, rubbing and light irradiation.

In this article, we synthesized an azo dye rotaxane containing bis(8-hydroxyquinoline) group and its polymeric metal complex with zinc. The azo dye rotaxane exhibits high pH sensitivity, solvatochromism and zinc (II) ion sensings in aqueous solution. These behaviors came from the tautomeric equilibrium between azo-hydrazone tautomers and the formation of extended conjugation. The structure of polymeric zinc complexed dye rotaxane was confirmed with NMR and FT-IR measurements. The existence of CD rings, provided by dye rotaxane formation, was found to be very beneficial in improving aqueous solubility of polymeric metal complex.

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.