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Characteristics of Gastronomic Nationalism in Peru

  • Journal of Asia-Pacific Studies
  • Abbr : JAPS
  • 2024, 31(2), pp.69-94
  • DOI : 10.18107/japs.2024.31.2.004
  • Publisher : Institute of Global Affairs
  • Research Area : Social Science > Social Science in general
  • Received : May 3, 2024
  • Accepted : June 13, 2024
  • Published : June 30, 2024

Seo Ji Hyun 1

1부경대학교

Accredited

ABSTRACT

Since the mid-1990s, the globalisation of Peruvian gastronomic culture has been in full swing, with the globalised traditional Peruvian cuisine, also known as Novo Andino cuisine, gaining fame both domestically and internationally. Against this backdrop, the role of Peruvian celebrity chefs, who studied cuisine professionally in Europe or the United States, played an important role. Thanks to the globalisation of Peruvian gastronomy, ‘gastronomic nationalism’ began to be advocated by the Peruvian government, the gastronomic industry, and the elite class in the 2000s. The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics of gastronomic nationalism. This study argues that gastronomic nationalism, advocated by the Peruvian elite, has the character of neoliberal multiculturalism. Gastronomic nationalism emphasises the ‘gastronomy of the indigenous peoples’ that constitutes the Peruvian ‘tradition’, and it is advocated that the gastronomy of the indigenous people can promote the integration and inclusive development of Peruvian society. However, in this multicultural nationalism, the ‘gastronomy of the indigenous peoples’, which can be established as the gastronomy of the ‘Peruvian tradition’, is allowed only if it can be converted into a globalised commodity. In this way, the multicultural character of Peruvian gastronomic nationalism can be seen as implying the character of neoliberal multiculturalism, described by Charles Hale (2005).

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This paper was written with support from the National Research Foundation of Korea.
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