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Analysis of Male Neckline from a Hamilton’s Cultural stratiform model - Renaissance and Baroque portraits -

  • Journal of Communication Design
  • Abbr : JCD
  • 2019, 68(), pp.330-346
  • DOI : 10.25111/jcd.2019.68.26
  • Publisher : CDAK Society of Communication Design
  • Research Area : Arts and Kinesiology > Design > Visual Information Design > Information Design
  • Received : June 10, 2019
  • Accepted : July 26, 2019
  • Published : July 31, 2019

Jung, In-ui 1,  Kim, Hyun-Joo 1,  youn ji young 2

1단국대학교
2단국대학교 패션산업디자인과

Accredited

ABSTRACT

The changes in costume have reflected the events of politics, economy, society, and art of each time, and also have worked as symbolic means like authority and dignity. The objective of this study is to understand the internal values and meanings by analyzing changes in the neckline of men’s wear shown in the portraits of the Renaissance and Baroque periods, focusing on the cultural stratiform model by Jean A. Hamilton. In the methods of this study, the frame of theoretical background was formed by focusing on the literature research and cases through data collection such as preceding researches, theses related to the history of costume/art, journals, books, and internet online. Especially, based on Hamilton’s theory of stratiform model, the background of the time was examined based on the cultural elements of the Renaissance and Baroque periods. As the concrete research cases, this study attempted the external analysis on the neckline of men’s wear focusing on the portraits shown in the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Out of 150 portraits of those two periods, this study selected the ruff collar, falling collar, and cravate in 52 portraits clearly showing the visual structure of neckline, and then conducted the external analysis. This study drew total three internal meanings of changes in the neckline of men’s wear. First, largely focusing on the cultural elements, it is the ‘sociality’ through the visualization of authority. Second, it is the ‘artistry’ through the formativeness of aesthetic pursuit. Third, it is the ‘realizability’ through the transformation of structure. Like this, the technology, social structure, and ideology based on the cultural stratiform model have much influenced the changes and styles of costume. Especially, this study reviewed the significance of external changes and internal development of men’s wear through the changes in the neckline of men’s wear in the Renaissance and Baroque periods.

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